Living in Saligao, Goa, my whole life, I’ve often stuck to the familiar when it comes to how I spend my weekends – trying out local eateries, cafe-hopping, hanging out at friends’ houses, or lazy weekends at home. But a recent chat with friends Sandeep, Rene, and Vaibhav, who moved here from Delhi, sparked the realization that we all stick to the same-old-same-old. There’s so much of Goa we haven’t explored, so why not do something that doesn’t involve visiting eating joints that will only shut shop 6 months later?
With that in mind, one Saturday, we decided to hit the road for a day trip to Tambdi Surla, located in Valpoi – in the Sattari district of Goa. Tambdi Surla is a 12th-century temple in South Goa, about an hour and a half from home. Being one of Goa’s most well-known monuments, I’ve learned so much about this temple in school and have done quite a lot of research on it for various projects, both in school and for work. So we set off to explore Goa beyond the usual – hopefully the first trip of many.
Tambdi Surla’s Fascinating History
The Mahadev Temple at Tambdi Surla, dedicated to Lord Shiva, dates back to the 12th century, making it one of Goa’s oldest surviving temples. Built by the Kadamba dynasty, possibly under Queen Kamladevi, it showcases Kadamba-Yadava architecture, a style rare in Goa, using black basalt sourced from the Deccan plateau. The temple’s intricate carvings, including depictions of Shiva, Vishnu, and Brahma with their consorts, adorn its walls and ceiling, resembling temples in Aihole, Karnataka.
Its remote location in a forest clearing at the foot of the Western Ghats helped it survive Islamic invasions and the Goa Inquisition, unlike many other Goan temples destroyed by Mughal or Portuguese rulers. The temple houses a Shiva linga and a headless Nandi statue, with local legends claiming a king cobra still resides in its shadows. Maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) as a Monument of National Importance, it remains an active worship site, especially during Mahashivratri, celebrated with fervor. While not a lot of tourists visit, it is usually fairly crowded with locals and religious travelers on regular days.
Why Tambdi Surla is Popular
Tambdi Surla’s appeal lies in its blend of history, architecture, and natural beauty. As Goa’s oldest temple, it draws history buffs eager to explore its Kadamba-era craftsmanship, with carvings of elephants, lotus flowers, and deities
Another reason why I think it is popular is that it gives you the thrill of adventure. Located in the Bhagwan Mahaveer Wildlife Sanctuary, the temple offers an escape from Goa’s commercialized beaches. Its isolation, as another reviewer noted, makes it a peace and quiet, more so since the route. to the temple is through acres and acres of forest. The nearby Surla River and Tambdi Surla Waterfall, a 50-meter cascade, attract adventure seekers and nature lovers, especially during monsoons when the falls are at their peak. The wildlife sanctuary itself is home to tigers, leopards, and diverse bird species, so those who enjoy wildlife photography come here too.
Despite its allure, Tambdi Surla remains less crowded than Goa’s more popular temples like the Mangeshi Temple, the Mahalasa Narayani Temple, the Shantadurga Temple, and the Saptakoteshwar Temple, appealing to those seeking offbeat escapades.
How to Travel to Tambdi Surla
Tambdi Surla is about 65 km from Panaji, 58 km from Margao, and 70 km from Dabolim Airport. The most convenient way to reach it is by car or two-wheeler. I’m sure you will thoroughly enjoy the scenic drive through the forests of the Western Ghats. From Panaji, take NH748 toward Belgaum, turn at Mollem crossroads, and follow signs to Surla village, about 45 km east of Ponda. The road is well-maintained, with lush greenery forming a canopy overhead.
Public transport is an option, but less direct. Buses from Panaji to Mollem cost around INR 80-100 one-way, followed by a taxi or auto-rickshaw to the temple. The nearest railway station is Kulem, 21 km away, where you can hire a taxi. Expect the journey from Panaji to take 90-120 minutes by road.
Useful Info:
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Temple Timings: Open daily from 7:00 AM to 5:30 PM, with no entry fee.
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Attire: Wear modest clothing to respect the temple’s sanctity.
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Photography: Allowed, but be respectful of worshippers.
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Accessibility: The temple has uneven surfaces, so those with mobility issues may need assistance
Best Time to Visit
The best time to visit Tambdi Surla is from November to February, when the weather is slightly cooler. But even so, no matter what time of the year you go, if you visit in the afternoon, it will be extremely hot as the black granite temple structure holds on to heat like a sponge. We reached there around noon, and it was terribly hot. Another realization was that we had to keep our shoes out and walk on the hot tiles to get to the temple – that was painful!! It reminded me of the sole-burning experience we had while checking out the Gangaramaya Temple in Colombo, where we had the same lapse in judgement.
For those keen on the Tambdi Surla Waterfall, the monsoon season (June to September) is recommended, as the falls are at their most spectacular. However, keep in mind that heavy rainfall can make trails slippery and roads less accessible, so plan accordingly.
#TGGTips
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Bring water, sunscreen, and a hat. Also, carry snacks as food options are limited to a few stalls near the parking area. If you plan to go trekking, wear sturdy shoes and carry a change of clothes for a dip in the waterfall’s pool.
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The sanctuary is a protected area, so avoid littering and respect wildlife.
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After your visit, try traditional Goan seafood dishes at nearby eateries in Mollem or Surla village, known for their use of local spices. We headed to Ponda to one of my favourite fish thali spots in the area – Laxmi Bar, Ponda, but bear in mind, it is quite far from Tambdi Surla. I am not aware of the names of any eateries that are a short distance from the temple.
Whether you’re a Goan rediscovering your roots or a visitor seeking an offbeat experience, Tambdi Surla is a nice place to have on your agenda if you have the time. Tune in to Facebook and Instagram to see what part of Goa we explore next.