I wonder what it would be like, as a foodie, to live in Divar instead of Saligao.

I can’t just hop on my bike and head to any and every corner of North Goa when I suddenly have a hankering for hummus, tacos or a good dosa. Technically, you could do the same from Divar – but it involves crossing the Mandovi on a ferry every time, which requires a little more planning and may take away that “let’s just drive around and see what we feel like eating” convenience.

Then again, there is a rather lovely upside to having fewer choices. It can sometimes take me an hour to decide where to eat, especially when friends and family start weighing in with their opinions. On Divar, that problem largely disappears. There are only a handful of places to eat when you want to make an impromptu plan, and, strangely enough, I find that rather refreshing.

It reminds me of the old days in Saligao, when we only had Florentine and not 30 other restaurants within a two-kilometre radius of my house competing for our attention.

Divar’s food scene is small, local and, in many places, wonderfully uncomplicated. There are family-run restaurants, Goan thalis, fried fish, little snack stops and a few unexpected finds. You just need to know where to look, and, occasionally, be prepared to cross your fingers and go with the flow.

I’ve been making my way around the island, eating at the places I come across and figuring out which ones are worth stopping for. So, if you’re heading to Divar and wondering where to eat, start here.

Restaurants in Divar I’ve Explored So Far

The Philosopher’s Stove

I first heard about The Philosopher’s Stove through an Instagram reel calling it a “hidden gem” – the magic words guaranteed to make tourists come running. Thankfully, this one actually is rather charming.

The Philosopher’s Stove is a sweet little home-run pizza spot in Piedade, Divar, with tables, chairs and benches spread across a balcony overlooking the garden. The doors open straight into the family’s living room, which is very much still a living room where the family lives and goes about their day.

When I arrived, there was no waitstaff or manager around, no printed menu, no online menu and not even a blackboard telling me what was available. I wasn’t sure whether I was supposed to ring a bell, sit down or simply wait. I wasn’t even sure whether the 2-3 people sitting on the tables were famly members enjoying a rainy day in their balcony, or customers! So I went sheepishly to the front door and stood there. An elderly lady eventually spotted me and called one of the men who runs the place, who told me to take a seat and said he’d be with me shortly.   When he came out, he asked whether I wanted a vegetarian or non-vegetarian pizza. I said non-veg. He asked if pork would do. I happily agreed. He then suggested pork pepperoni with paprika chillies. And that was my entire pizza selection process. There wasn’t another non-veg pizza offered, nor a menu from which to choose. He simply suggested what he thought I’d like – and honestly, I probably would have picked the same thing if I had a menu in hand, anyway. Still, the order-placing process was unconvenial (though I wouldn’t say bad) – especially in this world of QR code menus and online ordering systems that takes the human element out of everything.

The pizza came in about half an hour and was absolutely delicious. Wood-fired and hand-stretched, it had that lovely crisp, smoky crust and fresh, flavourful toppings that make you want to keep eating even when you’re already full. I also ordered two cold coffees, which I enjoyed but I thought could have been considerably stronger.

A family arrived later and sat at the other end of our long table, and I watched the same thing happen: the man came out, asked whether they wanted veg or non-veg, and suggested a pizza accordingly. I guess that’s simply how they operate. They asked whether they could swap mushrooms for corn, and he agreed.

The pizzas can take a while to arrive because their oven is small and, from what I overheard him explaining, they bake one pizza at a time. If you’re coming here, be prepared to wait. But I wouldn’t consider that a drawback. You’ve come to an offbeat island like Divar – you shouldn’t expect city-style efficiency. The whole point here is to slow down. Sit among the greenery, have a conversation, read a book or play one of the many games they’ve made available. I loved that the place felt personal rather than overly polished.

I also brought my dog, Bailey, and took a gamble by asking if they were pet-friendly. Turns out they were – phew! They were wonderfully warm with her, giving her a pat on the head whenever they passed by.

We paid ₹1,400 for one pizza and two cold coffees. There was no bill and prices weren’t displayed anywhere, so I estimate the pizza itself was around ₹800–900, but I can’t give you an exact price.

So yes, come for the pizza, but don’t come expecting a conventional restaurant experience. The slow pace, informal ordering and warmth of the hosts are part of what makes The Philosopher’s Stove feel like such a lovely little Divar experience.

Timings: Monday, Friday & Saturday from 6 PM onwards; Sunday from 12–6 PM. Weekday pre-orders are possible by message.

Rock Inn

Rock Inn is your typical local Goan family restaurant, except there’s a little more thought into the décor. It’s nicely done without losing that homely, neighbourhood-restaurant feel. The menu is what you’d expect from a Goan restaurant: fried fish and meat preparations, the usual Goan curries, rice and breads, along with straight drinks, soft drinks and lime sodas. Prices are reasonable, but what really stands out is the hospitality. The owner and staff are personable, happy to chat, make recommendations and generally make you feel welcome rather than like just another table to serve.

I’ve been here a few times, and on my post recent visit, I tried the Classique Thali, which came with the usual assortment of a vegetable side, kismoor, futi kadi, cabbage and rice, but with a piece of fried chonak and recheado prawns. They also have a vegetarian thali. I also spotted and tried something I’ve never come across before: a Chicken Cafreal Thali. Along with the usual sides, it came with a whole chicken leg, cafreal gravy on the side and xacuti gravy on the side. I thought the two gravies tasted more or less identical, which they really shouldn’t – but the idea of the thali itself was unusual enough to make me curious.

I asked for some bread to go with it and was handed a sweet bun instead of the usual poee or pao. It was, admittedly, a rather odd pairing a sweet bun, which is usually eaten with butter and jam for breakfast, with a savoury Goan meal. When I asked why, I was told that because it was Sunday, the local baker hadn’t supplied poee or pao. Ok, I was willing to cut them some slack. Divar is an offbeat island destination. You can’t exactly order poee on an app and have it arrive in 15 minutes. Sometimes the local baker doesn’t bake what you want on a Sunday – and that’s simply part of eating somewhere like this.

Not everything is a hit, though. The golden-fried squid is disappointing; the batter was thick and soft rather than light and crisp. Still, with relatively few dining options on Divar, Rock Inn is firmly among the places I’d recommend trying. The mussels, when they’re in season, and the chicken lollipops are also worth looking out for.

Come here for straightforward Goan food, reasonable prices and, perhaps most importantly, the kind of warm, personal hospitality that’s becoming harder to find in busier parts of Goa.

My verdict: Not everything is perfect, but Rock Inn gets the important things right.

Ok, I know this has only 2 places and Divar has exactly 3 more to add to the list! I’m going to make my way there again hopefully this month. Unlike most places in Goa, Divar has a finite number of places so it’s easy to be absolutely comprehensive with this guide!

If you’re heading back towards North Goa afterwards and want considerably more choice, here’s my list of where to eat in Siolim. Go through my Food page for a plethora of other guides.