As I woke up bright and early (6 AM, yikes!) on the morning of my first trip to Kerala, famously known as ‘God’s own country,’ I couldn’t contain my excitement. It was a road trip with some of my closest friends, and we were eager to experience the beauty of Fort Kochi, its rich cultural heritage, delectable seafood, toddy shops, the lush greenery of Munnar, and everything else this enchanting state had to offer.
Necessities aside, we had our snacks, pillows, thermal mugs, cool bags, and more… because when on a road trip, why go basic? Our itinerary included two of Kerala’s popular destinations – Fort Kochi and Munnar.
I will write a separate blog post on my 24-hour road trip from Goa to Kerala as well as a blog post on things to do in Munnar, but for now, here’s everything we did in Fort Kochi and Ernakulam.
Kochi, Fort Kochi and Ernakulam
You may find it helpful to know the difference between Kochi, Fort Kochi, and Ernakulam, especially if, like me, you. thought Kochi and Fort Kochi were the same thing.
Kochi is the name of the city itself, encompassing various areas within it including Ernakulam and Fort Kochi. In other words, Ernakulam and Fort Kochi are two distinct neighborhoods in Kochi. Ernakulam is the commercial hub and is a bustling metropolitan city with modern amenities, high-rises, and a fast-paced lifestyle. It has plenty of shopping malls, restaurants, and entertainment options that cater to the needs of locals and visitors.
In contrast, Fort Kochi is a historic neighborhood that exudes an old-world charm. It is known for its unique cultural heritage, colonial architecture, and breathtaking seaside views. Its narrow streets, ancient Chinese fishing nets, and antique shops offer a glimpse into the soul of Kerala and make visitors like us feel like we’ve stepped back in time.
How far is Ernakulam from Fort Kochi?
Ernakulam is approximately 15 kilometers away from Fort Kochi, and a one-way journey would take you anywhere between 30-40 minutes. You can travel to and fro by car or ferry. So if you are not bent on spending all your time at Fort Kochi, consider staying at Ernakulam, where there is a better choice of accommodation for all budgets.
We stayed at a great, fully furnished service apartment that we found on Airbnb which was spacious, comfortable, and plush – at a rate that would have been cheaper than staying at a lower-grade Fort Kochi hotel. While the upside was that we felt like locals living in a quiet part of Ernakulam, the downside, of course, was the commute between the two neighborhoods. While Uber (or in our case, our own car) can take you back and forth with ease, we would have explored Fort Kochi more if we were to stay in Fort Kochi instead of Ernakulum – so really, it’s all about what you’d prefer.
Things to do in Fort Kochi
Our stay in Kochi lasted three nights and four days, and here’s a glimpse of some of the memorable experiences we had:
Wandering Around Fort Kochi
Fort Kochi is a treasure trove of captivating sights, soothing sea breezes, and a rich cultural heritage that dates back centuries. We decided to spend an entire morning walking through the colourful lanes that reminded us of Fontainhas in Panjim, although much more organized and clean. As we strolled through the town, we briefly stopped by the traditional Chinese fishing nets lining the coast. These colossal nets, with their intricate mechanisms, add to the picturesque charm of the place, but they are more of a tourist trap.
Cafe Hopping in Fort Kochi
During our exploration, we took a break at Trouvaille Cafe, a stylish spot where we savored great coffee and snacks. If you are a digital nomad in Fort Kochi, this is a great place to work out of. Towards the end of our exploration, we also popped into Classic Art Cafe. If you like art and kitschy decor, you’ll love the ambiance. We didn’t try the food, but the coffee was decent and the lemon iced tea was avoidable.
On my second trip to the area, 6 months after publishing this blog, I visited some more cafes and restaurants in Fort Kochi that you may like to read about and visit yourself.
Jew Town
Down the road from Fort Kochi is Jew Town or Mattancherry – and it has enough to keep an antique lover smitten for days. This town is renowned for its deep-rooted Jewish heritage and is home to one of the oldest Jewish communities in India. The Cochin Jews, also known as Malabar Jews or Kochinim, have a history that dates back to the time of King Solomon – and if you want to, you can visit the 14th-century Pardesi synagog and cemetery in the heart of the town (you won’t be missing much if you skip it.)
We wandered through the tiny market in Jew Town, where antique stores tempted us with their array of unique artifacts. This place truly is a paradise for shopaholics and antique lovers, offering a wide range of unique and fascinating collectibles It was a delight to browse through these stores, marveling at the timeless beauty they held.
Watch a Kathakali Performance in Fort Kochi
If you love art and culture, this is one of the best things to do in Fort Kochi! Every evening, there is a Kathakali (Kerala’s traditional dance form) performance at Kerala Kathakali Center – a tiny little theatre in an even tiner lane in the city. You can go at 5 PM to watch the dancers paint their faces on stage, or at 6 for the performance. I was amazed to find out just how popular this activity was. I went in at 5 PM and got a seat on the very last row. The foreigners are clued in and arrive early for the best seats – some even booking rows in the upstairs gallery (which I didn’t even know one could do!). The ticket costs Rs. 1000 which is Rs. 500 for the face painting and Rs. 500 for the dance performance. The theatre seats around 150-200 people and 90% of them were foreigners.
I loved everything about the evening – how everything started punctually and ran like clockwork, and how well organized it was. As you enter and buy your ticket, you are asked what your native language is and given a printout of the story that will be enacted on stage in your native language. After all, that’s what Kathakali is – Katha is Sanskrit for ‘tale’ and Kali is Malayalam for ‘dance.’ The story that is performed is an excerpt from a Hindu mythological story.
Before the performance, the narrator explains how the dancers use their eyes, face, neck, facial muscles, body muscles, and hand postures to tell a tale, and how a simple word, like ‘come’ could involve the use of various actions and movements, depending on the context of the word ‘come’. So if you say “please come here” with love, “come here right now” in anger, the movements are drastically different. Similarly – the face painting. A good character’s face is painted green, an evil character’s face is painted black, a female character’s face is painted yellow, and so on.
I found the experience highly educational and fun! I wish I had a better seat so I could get better photos! Pro Tip – Book your seats in advance.
Unfortunately, that’s about all I did in Fort Kochi. If I had more time, I’d have gone to Mattancherry Palace which features murals depicting portraits and exhibits of the Rajas of Kochi. I’d have perhaps gotten an Ayurvedic massage, which my friends did, but I skipped as I had to work. And lastly, I’d have loved to visit the residence of Vasco Da Gama, the Portuguese explorer who first set foot in Goa.
Things to do in Ernakulam
Dine at amazing restaurants!
Arippa in Ernakulum was close to our Airbnb, so we went over for dinner one evening. Just as the reviews said, we had a bit of waiting to do to get a table, but the food was delicious and quite affordable for the quality and quantity served, we ordered beef, duck, and mutton dishes and the beef fry was my personal favourite. The service is average though, but the food and ambiance make up for it. During my week-long trip to Kerala, I can safely say it was the best meal I had.
Another culinary delight we indulged in was Kunafa at a little place called Kunafa Story. This Middle Eastern treat seems to have gained popularity among locals, possibly due to the large number of Keralites working in the Gulf. We made sure to savor this delectable dessert whenever we stumbled upon it and the one here was yum!
Lastly, during our 3 days in Ernakulam, we ordered breakfast and the best masala chai via Swiggy from a place called Brindavan. Every item we ordered – from Pazhampoli to Uniyappams and from dosa to medu vadas – we couldn’t get enough. We even ordered breakfast-to-go here on the morning of our road trip to Munnar, just to get one last taste!
Visit St. George Forane Church, Edappally
We were first awestruck by St. George Forane Church at midnight. We were just entering Ernakulam and it was the last few km of our drive from Goa. We were on our way to our Airbnb when we spotted the church lit up at night. Against the dark night sky, it looked like something out of a Harry Potter movie, with its towering pillars topped by statues, a grand arch, and a magnificent facade.
We visited this architectural masterpiece a couple of days later and learned about its rich historical background. The church, dating back to the 6th century, is believed to have been established by Mar Sabor and Mar Proth, Syrian priests from Persia. The entranceway and bell tower showcased intricate carvings and exquisite details that revealed a fusion of colonial and traditional Indian architectural styles.
Once inside, we were amazed by the interior’s beauty. The church boasts several ornate altars, featuring vibrant murals, statues, and delicate stained glass windows. The craftsmanship reflected in every aspect of the interior left us in awe of the talent and dedication of those who built it.
Lulu Mall – Asia’s largest mall
Just the fact that it is Asia’s largest mall should suffice in calling to mind a massive shopping arena with floor upon floor of stores of every kind. I’m not someone who spends time in malls when I travel, but I accompany my friends there. We simply grabbed coffee, popped into 3-4 stores, and left an hour or two later. While I wouldn’t recommend you spend precious hours on a short holiday here, if you like to shop for branded items, there’s no better place.
Buy Saris
You ordinarily wouldn’t find me in a sari shop, but again, one of the upsides of traveling with friends is that you do things you ordinarily wouldn’t. We spent a couple at Kasavu Parampara where my friend bought some really beautiful traditional Kerala sarees
Although our time in Fort Kochi and Ernakulam was short, I was grateful for the change of landscape and routine. From the captivating sights to the flavorsome cuisine, Fort Kochi offered a glimpse into the soul of Kerala, leaving us longing to return and explore more of this enchanting state.
Next on our journey was Munnar, where we delved into the breathtaking landscapes of tea plantations. Stay tuned for the next chapter of our Kerala adventure! Follow me on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram for more travel and food adventures.
