As someone hailing from the coastal state of Goa, I thought I had seen it all when it came to beach views from atop cliffs. But then I arrived in Varkala and I was in for a surprise! An entire town perched on a cliff, offering mesmerizing views of the Arabian Sea! From grocery stores to gelato shops, pharmacies to boutiques, and even hotels and restaurants – Varkala’s rocky red cliffs and everything on it boast the most enchanting vistas you can imagine.
I was excited to spend two glorious days in Varkala, a little slice of tropical paradise, a few hours’ drive from Trivandrum and Kochi – two metropolitan cities on either side of it. Word has it that Varkala has seen its fair share of changes over the years, and even though it was my first time there, I could sense the transformation. It reminded me of how my own home state, Goa, has evolved since I was a child. The ever-encroaching grasp of commercialization has somewhat chipped away at the charm of palm-lined streets, dusty red lanes, sleepy villages, and sandy beaches. So, if you’re planning a visit to this beautiful beach town in Kerala, I highly recommend doing it sooner rather than later!
Varkala Travelogue
Now, let’s talk about my whirlwind 48-hour adventure in Varkala. I dedicated one day to exploring the North Cliff and the other to soaking up the vibes of the South Cliff – this is, in addition to having to work, so I did not get entire days to explore. Admittedly, this limited time only allowed me to scratch the surface of Varkala’s offerings. However, I still have a few pointers and experiences to share with you. So, let’s dive in and explore the best of Varkala together!
Best Time To Visit Varkala
When it comes to visiting Varkala, timing is everything. Let me give you the lowdown on the weather. Kerala, in general, is known for its soaring temperatures and unbearable humidity. During my first trip in October 2023 and my second trip in January 2024, I experienced it firsthand. The nights in January were pleasantly cool, but the daytime heat felt like I was roasting in a furnace!
So, when is the best time to visit Varkala? I’d recommend planning your trip between October and February. During this period, the weather tends to be more pleasant. However, keep in mind that with pleasant weather comes an influx of tourists, which can drive up accommodation rates. Even if you find yourself in Varkala during the warmer months, there’s a solution. Plan to spend your afternoons either in your room or at an air-conditioned restaurant, as it can be too hot to do much else. This worked out perfectly for me since I work when I travel. I spent my afternoons on my laptop without feeling like I was missing out on any outdoor activities!
How to Get to Varkala
Now, let’s talk about how to get to this beautiful coastal town. Varkala doesn’t have its own airport, but the nearest one is in Trivandrum in the south, about 50 kilometers away. You can also fly into Kochi in the north, which is a bit further. If you prefer traveling by train, you can alight at Varkala Sivagiri Railway Station. It’s convenient and offers easy access to the town.
If road trips are your thing, high five! You can rent a car in either Trivandrum or Kochi and embark on an exciting journey to Varkala. I’ll save the details for another blog post. Stay tuned!
Where to Stay in Varkala
Varkala, a charming beach town reminiscent of Goa but on a smaller scale, is divided like its Goan counterpart, into North and South regions. The North Cliff area is bustling with clubs, restaurants, swanky hotels, and a lively atmosphere, while the South Cliff offers a quieter, more serene experience. Similar to Goa, you can explore each section in Varkala within a few days if you’re in a rush, or take a leisurely week or more to fully immerse yourself.
Choosing the best place to stay in Varkala depends on whether you seek a vacation filled with action or tranquility. During my visit, I stayed in the North Cliff area, as I had limited time in Varkala. However, given the choice, I would have loved to spend a few days in the South Cliff area as well. There are options catering to various budgets – from hostels to resorts.
One hotel that stood out in the North Cliff area is Clafouti Hotel. I stumbled upon this hotel while navigating the narrow lanes. It offered parking space, which was a significant factor for me. The rooms were clean and comfortable, but perhaps a bit too dark and gloomy for a beach town. The premium category was not available for a two-night stay, so I opted for the cheaper category rooms priced at INR 3500 (which is not cheap at all).
On the second night, I moved to the premium category at INR 4000. Although the rooms were almost identical, the more expensive option was slightly larger, but still dark. Additionally, Clafouti Hotel offers a honeymoon suite priced at a staggering INR 16,000, comparable to the rates of 5-star resorts in Goa.
It’s worth noting that while the hotel has an on-site restaurant, the food may not meet everyone’s expectations. For those seeking a room just a few meters away from the North Cliff, with picturesque ocean views, options for decent hotels are many, and Clafouti Hotel is one such option.
Where to Eat in Varkala
When it comes to dining in Varkala, the North Cliff is the go-to spot for restaurants. However, in my opinion, many of them fall short. Each one seems to be a jack-of-all-trades, offering multiple cuisines but not excelling at any of them. Still, that doesn’t stop them from drawing in patrons and running house-full – seems to be a case of the bandwagon effect.
Restaurants in Varkala – North Cliff:
Tickety Boo
I stopped here for chai and snacks because I saw a lot of people hanging out. Sadly, neither the tea nor the snacks are worth writing home about but gauging by reviews, they do a wonderful breakfast. What makes this place special is that it is run by the differently abled. It’s a no-frills spot for a simple chai, a cigarette, and maybe a chance to meet interesting people. It is located in the backlanes, behind some hotels and it doesn’t have a view like other restaurants.
Rabbit Cafe
I just popped in here for an iced coffee, and I don’t know why it’s so hard to get a decent coffee in Varkala – but this one was mostly ice and milk. However, I must say that the place does look pretty in the evenings, lit up with fairy lights and offering a view of the ocean. So, if you go, order anything other than the coffee; and take a book to read or your laptop if you need to work – it offers a calm space to do both.
Darjeeling Cafe
This place is said to be the best restaurant on the North Cliff, and it’s always packed. It appears to have over 100 tables, so you’ll still find a spot even with the crowds. The food is great compared to the other options available in Varkala. The menu is massive, offering a wide range of cuisines. Despite its size, the service is fairly good and the ambiance is dimly lit but decent if you like the candelight experience. I quite liked the pizzas here.
Bad Habits
While most restaurants in Varkala close between 10-11 PM, this gelato store stays open until midnight. It is naturally frequented by night owls looking for a late-night sugar rush. The gelato here is quite good, with some great flavors. I suggest trying it on a hot Kerala afternoon or, if you’re like me, when you’re out and about on a midnight stroll under the full moon sky.
Abba Restaurant
Among the handful of restaurants I dined at on the North Cliff, I’d rank this one on top. Like Darjeeling Cafe, it has a vast menu and is always crowded at meal times, which can make the space a bit loud. However, the food here is freshly prepared and tasty. The prices are reasonable, and if you can bear the heat while dining in the afternoons, you’ll enjoy a lovely view.
Coffee Temple
I had high hopes for this spot and waited all evening for a nice cup of coffee, but alas – it was a weak cuppa, with mostly ice and milk. The cappuccino was so-so, and the tables and ambiance in general were grimy. In the evenings, a group of boys sit outside and play the drums, which wasn’t my preferred background music while savoring my coffees. So, unfortunately, this was a no-go for me.
Restaurants in Varkala – South Cliff:
Trip Is Life
Among the dining establishments I popped into on the South Cliff, Trip Is Life stood out as a gem offering the best dining experience in Varkala. Situated with a stunning view overlooking the Arabian Sea, this cafe boasts an unbeatable location that provides an open view of the Arabian Sea. The ambiance is relaxing and inviting, with both indoor and outdoor seating options available. The food served at Trip Is Life is top-notch, with a menu featuring a variety of world cuisines to choose from.
While prices may be slightly higher compared to other restaurants, the quality, quantity, and ambiance make it well worth it. The coffee served here is aromatic and rich, perfectly complementing the picturesque view of the sea. Additionally, it is digital-nomad friendly and you can enjoy amenities such as air conditioning, free wifi, and attentive service!
What to do in Varkala
Varkala offers a range of activities for travelers. To experience the unique beauty of Varkala, take a stroll along the edges of the cliffs – don’t worry – they are fenced and have a paved footpath to walk on. This is the only place you’ll find lofty cliffs adjacent to the Arabian sea.
Swimming at Varkala beach, surrounded by the rustic red cliffs, is a must-do activity. You can reach the beach by descending the cement steps from the top of the cliff, which is not as daunting as it seems. It is a popular ritual among many foreigners who stay in Varkala long-term to swim in the morning and evening.
For those seeking something offbeat, head over to Black Beach, a few meters down from Varkala Beach (also called Papanasham Beach) and walk along the strip with black sand. This reminded me a lot of Mandvi in Gujarat, but without the camels.
Visit the Janardhana Temple, estimated to be 2000 years old. It’s accessible via a boat ride. Yoga and surfing classes are widely available in Varkala. Visitors interested in yoga and surfing can take classes to learn or practice both activities. Jatayu Earth Centre, a giant bird statue, is a popular Instagram spot located 35 kilometers from Varkala. You can also take a day trip to the nearby Munroe Island if you have the time. I haven’t personally done any of these activities, so please do your own research before you go.
And that’s a wrap! When I started this blog post, I didn’t think I’d have too. much to write about – but phew, it is long! Follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter / X for more fun adventures.
