From the west coast of Sri Lanka, we headed inland to Kandy, the second-largest city in the country, and the gateway to the hills. We had spent 4 days in Colombo, the financial capital; and Kandy, the historic and cultural capital of Sri Lanka, was next on our agenda.
What I found most interesting about Kandy is that due to its geographic advantage and difficult terrain, the erstwhile Kingdom of Kandy was able to fight off Portuguese and Dutch advancements for centuries after the rest of the country succumbed to foreign rule. It was the last standing bastion of then-independent Ceylon, which is why it is the area that is richest in art, history, and culture. While Kandy has become synonymous with its #1 attraction – the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, it also has colonial architecture, beautiful gardens, and the serene Kandy Lake for those who have the time to see them.
Getting to Kandy
Colombo is the only point of entry to the country, and from here, you can travel to Kandy by train, a/c bus, or by taxi. Kandy does not have an airport and the city is located 84 km away from the nearest one. A cab would charge you around LKR 22,000. If you love road trips as much as I do, you can book a self-drive car and make the 2.5-hour (70 km) journey at your own pace. The roads are simply beautiful and the scenery along the way will keep you in good spirits. We couldn’t help but comment on how the drive felt like therapy, thanks to the endless stretches of greenery, the blue skies, and the warm sunshine. I rented a car from ShineAway Cars.
To know more about getting a driving license, renting a car, and more, I’ve written a blog post about it along with some other Sri Lanka FAQs.
Where to stay in Kandy
Being a city, Kandy has plenty of accommodation options for all budgets. We stayed 45 minutes outside the city in the idyllic village of Gurudeniya, so in terms of sightseeing and convenience, it was quite out of the way, but if you’re looking for peace and relaxation, read on.
My experience at our hotel, Jetwing Kandy Gallery enhanced my trip to Kandy tenfold. This luxury hotel is located on the banks of the Mahawelli Ganga River, the perfect place to come back to after exploring the marvels of the city. Having just 26 rooms and suites, the hotel manages to offer each room its personal butler – taking personalized service to the next level. A gorgeous pool, large balcony, peaceful location, great spa, and amenities make it one of the best choices in these parts.
I was floored when I saw my stunning room at Jetwing Kandy Gallery. Shrouded in greenery and overlooking the Mahawelli Ganga River, the longest river in Sri Lanka, the rooms are inviting and plush – a true sanctuary. My favourite experiences were breakfast by the pool and river, an evening swim, and a fabulous spa sesh to wind down after a long day of workcationing. The traditional song sung by the staff, the lighting of the lamp ceremony, and the local sweets we received upon arrival made this gorgeous luxury hotel feel so welcoming. The staff is absolutely wonderful – did I mention every room has a personal butler? Ours was the lovely Kivindi, who was always a call away.
An offbeat activity we did in Kandy was to do a short walking tour in the village, led by the naturalist at Jetwing Kandy Gallery. It was on the walk that we were shown an ancient statue of the sleeping Buddha under a tree. Just behind it is a stupa and caves with ancient carvings that date back to 2 BC. While the caves have been ravaged by treasure hunters and the head of the Buddha statue was likely washed away by the river, it is a fascinating place for those who like archeology and have an interest in historical findings. There is a little information about the place (called Gonawatta Caves) but you can read about it here.
Things to do in Kandy
The hotel staff at Jetwing Kandy Gallery happened to mention in conversation that there wasn’t much to do in Kandy apart from the 2-3 attractions in the city, and after experiencing the place and actively looking for offbeat things to do, I would agree. Kandy, they said, is often a stopover on the drive between Colombo and Nuwara Eliya – a more attractive destination, according to locals. And hence, if you aren’t a slow traveler or don’t have to work alongside your travel, one day in Kandy would suffice to see the major sights. If you do like to slow down and really soak in a new place or are working remotely like I was, then two days in Kandy are ideal.
Visit The Temple of The Tooth
It is said that Buddha’s tooth was snatched from the flames of his funeral pyre way back in 483 BC. It was smuggled to Sri Lanka by Princess Hemmamali, who hid it in her hair. The tooth was moved and hidden for many years before finally settling in Kandy, where no expense is spared to protect it at the Temple of the Tooth. It is enclosed inside several gold boxes covered in jewels and has been worshipped ever since. Over the years, the tooth grew in importance and was a symbol of sovereignty. Whoever had custody of the tooth had the right to rule the island. Sri Lankan Buddhists pay at least one visit here during their lifetime, and all of this makes this little tooth mighty impressive.
If you’re wearing off-shoulder tees, barebacked and sleeveless dresses, shorts, mini-skirts, see-through clothing, and distressed jeans you won’t be allowed to enter. Fortunately, at the entrance of the temple, you will find vendors selling sarongs, and for a price of LKR 300, you can rent one to wrap around your legs or upper body. It is also worth noting that most locals wear white at the temple, and while it is not mandatory to do so, if you want to blend in and look like a local to avoid tour guides zeroing in on you, you could do the same.
Speaking of tour guides, you don’t need to look out for one if you need one. They will find you. Conveniently for them, there are no signs leading foreigners to the designated counters from where they should buy a ticket (at LKR 1500 each). Most foreigners simply follow the crowd until they reach the counters meant for Sri Lankans to keep their footwear, and that’s when a guide will ‘helpfully’ show you to the counters meant for foreigners.
For us, it was 11 AM when our self-appointed guide took us to the counter meant for foreigners and according to him, the chamber where the tooth is kept open for public viewing closes at 11:15. He hastily ushered us in at top speed so we could get a glimpse of the chamber before it closed, and then proceeded to show us where to place our flower offerings, where we could and could not take pictures, all the rooms we could visit and the significance of what we were seeing. And that was that – he’d got his customer for the day. Although I must say, the temple was extremely crowded and the points of interest are all over the place. He helped us get out of there in 30 minutes flat while showing us the shortcuts and making our way through the crowd by speaking the local language, Sinhalese. We would have probably taken 2 hours in there, just finding our way and being pushed around by the crowds.
Overall, this was definitely a beautiful experience and I was blown away by the ornate carvings and colorful depictions of Buddha. I was also very intrigued by the room full of gifts and gold (that we weren’t allowed to see, but it sounded like something out of an adventure novel). Keep in mind, you can’t actually see the tooth – it’s locked inside a box and held behind glass.
P.S. During our trip to Kandy, we only visited the Temple of the Tooth and no other attractions simply because they were not of interest to us or we found them to be too expensive for the experience. The information listed below may help you plan your itinerary but is not from personal experience.
Spend a few hours at the Royal Botanical Garden
We made our way to the Royal Botanical Gardens and found out that the entry fee was quite steep at LKR 2000 per head (foreigner price), and decided to leave without seeing it. This sprawling park is said to be ultra grand as it was made for Kandyan royals to saunter through. It is spread over 60 hectares and holds 10,000 trees. You’ll find orchids, spice plants, Insta-worthy palm trees, and more. Plan to spend at least 3 hours to see it all. If I’m ever in Kandy again (and I suspect I will be when I pass through to go to Nuwara Eliya on a future trip), I may decide to check it out. After all, I’ve already seen the Temple… so why not?
Kandy to Ella Train Ride
The Kandy to Ella Train Ride is said to be among the most picturesque train journeys in the world. You’ve probably seen photos of people posing while hanging out of the train doors over the tea plantations. I really wanted to get on that epic journey and get a photo like that, but tickets have to be booked way in advance, and we didn’t do it in time. Secondly, we had the self-drive car that we’d picked up from Colombo, so making the 6-hour train journey to Ella meant we would have to figure out what to do with the car and how to transport it to our next destination. After days of deliberation, we decided to give that a pass, too. I did spot the train at Ella though!
Stroll around Kandy Lake
One of the things you can do if you have time to spare is spend a bit of time at the picturesque Kandy Lake. Entry is free and a walk around the 3 km circumference of the lake would take you an hour – a good way to get your step count up. The lake is a backdrop to the Temple of the Tooth Relic as well as the Udawattakele Forest Reserve, so it’s safe to say that you’ll spot plenty of wildlife around.
Other Things to Do
If you’re in the mood to visit more temples, the Gadaladeniya Viharaya, Embekke, and Lankathilaka called the ‘three temple loop’, is said to serve as a living history of Sri Lanka’s Buddhist heritage and craftsmanship. Many people recommend visiting the Elephant Orphanage, but I’d advise against it. Similar to the elephant sanctuary I visited in Coorg where one is led to believe that elephants are taken care of (partly true), they are used more as a form of entertainment and for tourists’ dollars.
Sigiriya, known as the eighth wonder of the world is a 3-hour drive from Kandy, and the Bahiravokanda Vihara Buddha Statue, the biggest Buddha statue in Sri Lanka is also a short drive away. If you would like to see all of these things as well, budget for 2 more days in Kandy.
That pretty much wraps up my visit to Kandy. Among all the places I visited, I feel like I have the least to write about Kandy. I didn’t try out a single cafe or restaurant in the city, which is very unlike me. Stay tuned for my next blog posts and comment below if you would like my itinerary in Sri Lanka. See you on Facebook and Instagram.
Kandy has been on my travel bucket list for ages! Thanks for this comprehensive guide.
Author
Happy to help, Steven!
Hi, I’m heading to SriLanka early June, I plan to stay two days in Colombo, staying at the Kingsbury, then I have five days on my own to explore, I’m a little anxious as my first time travelling on my own.
I would really appreciate any suggestions you may have
Author
Hi Bernadette!
5 days should be good to visit 1-2 places located in close proximity to each other. If you like beaches, head south to Galle, Mirissa, Weligama. Or if you’re more of a nature-person, then Kandy and Ella.
I found Sri Lanka to be super safe with several transport options (Uber, trains, local rickshaws) so you don’t have to worry about getting around. All these places I mentioned are touristy and you’re just one in the crowd – so as long as you dress modestly, you wont draw any attention. There’s always people around even at night – although if you can avoid going out alone at night, that would be better.