Contrary to popular belief, there’s nothing traditionally Goan about the Goan fish thali. Yes, you will find fish curry and rice in every Goan household, but the concept of fish thalis came into being as a lunch platter for the working class in Goa.
Over time, the fish thali has unfortunately become synonymous with Goan cuisine, overshadowing the diverse range of traditional dishes that reflect the varying culinary practices of Goan Catholics and Hindus. In today’s context, the widespread popularity of showcasing flatlay photos of thalis has contributed to the misconception that it represents quintessential Goan food. Additionally, tourists often feel the need to sample a fish thali to validate their visit to the state, perpetuating the narrative through the influence of social media influencers.
Nevertheless, the satisfaction of indulging in a thali is undeniable – especially on a Sunday afternoon, accompanied by a beer, uraak or a fresh lime soda!
Goa’s Best Fish Thalis
A fish thali usually comprises of rice, fish or prawn curry (called hooman / uman / ooman), fried fish of your choice, 1 or 2 vegetable side dishes, kismoor (a dry prawn accompaniment), pickle and sol kadhi ( a post-lunch drink made of fresh coconut milk, kokum, salt, and chili-garlic paste). Goan fish thalis typically do not contain chapatis, but the ones found in Mangalore sometimes do.
Fish thalis are available at most big or small Goan restaurant, a few of them stand out as the top fish thalis in Goa, in my books.
Bombil, Panjim
Once you try the fish thali at Bombil, you will forever compare every thali you eat thereafter to this one. Apart from having the usual suspects of rice, prawn curry (with ladyfinger, as it should be), fried fish of your choice, a veg side (often the Goan-household staple, red amaranth a.k.a tambdi bhaji, and sometimes tendli, drumsticks or beans) and a dry preparation of clams (tisreo sukhem), the platter boasts of much more.
Crushed papad, two types of homemade pickles (brinjal and garlic), dried fish, a tender cashew nut (called bibbe in Konkani), a sliver of raw mango soaked in brine (chepni tor) and a prawn cutlet (prawn dangar). That’s not all, you’ll be served with a veg macaroni soup – soup is something many Goan families used to eat in the evenings.
Step aside, shevyo, gulab jamun, and rice kheer. The queen of Goan desserts, the bebinca features in the Bombil fish thali! And to end it all, a glass of futi kadi / tiwal, which is sol kadhi without the coconut milk. I absolutely love how this thali is not just authentic, but also nostalgic with a lot of additions that link to Goans’ daily lives – items that are not commonly found in the thali, but add to customer delight. Keep in mind, though – that this thali is widely popular, and you will most likely have to wait anywhere between 15 mins to an hour for a table.
Vintage Restaurant, Pernem
If you’re willing to make the journey in the opposite direction of everything ‘happening,’ you’ll be in for a treat! Vintage Restaurant in Pernem is located on the highway and does a wonderful fish thali with a unique spin. The meal, called ‘Jevonacho Pantlo’ feeds 2-3 people and is served in a ‘pantlo’ or basket made of coconut palm leaves.
Each item is thoughtfully presented, with the fish filets being served in a mini version of a ‘sop’ (traditional winnow used to separate rice from the chaff), the sol kadi is served in a tiny ‘gurgulet’ (rooster-shaped clay utensil, the larger version of which was used to store water and keep it cool), the curry is served in a clay pot, and smaller fish is served in a tiny pouch made of coconut palms. There’s also rice, a bhaji (vegetable), pickle, kismoor, fish amotik, and a small dessert. You will leave here dreaming of taking a nice long siesta after such a heavy meal.
Lazy Fish, Arpora
Lazy Fish in Arpora is a restaurant that has been run by Harsha Tai for the last 15 years and has a menu that’s loaded with seafood from start to finish! A true hidden gem, this family-run spot has a thali that may not be elaborate in terms of the quantity or type of items served, but in the taste of everything on the platter. This homely, no-frills restaurant is in the verandah of a house and the place gets crowded very quickly at lunchtime. The standard thali options come out quickly, but you will have to wait a while for special preparations.
Don’t miss the hooman – it’s the best I’ve had in a long time, and even the popular fish thali places don’t do it as well as they do!
Sai Mauli, Nachinola
A tiny, unassuming restaurant in Nachinola, Sai Mauli garners an immense amount of love from locals and outsiders alike. This 5 table restaurant seats a dozen or so people and dishes up an array of fantastic breakfast and lunch options. From thalis to fried seafood, ros omelette to a variety of bhajis (I tried the tomato bhaji and chana masala), biryani, xacuti, fresh juices/shakes and more, everything is fresh, tasty and value for money.
This affordable restaurant is also known for its chicken and mushroom samosas and sweet buns. For such a tiny place, the menu that hangs on the wall is extensive, and judging by the line of waiting people outside at lunchtime, you know you’ve struck gold. Aside from the biryani being (extremely) salty, perhaps a one-off situation, we devoured everything we tried.
Sanil Bar and Restaurant, Porvorim
For fish thalis that are consistently good! Sanil Bar & Restaurant is one of the best local Goan restaurants in Porvorim. Although a tad cramped, having a limited menu and a short waiting time if you visit for lunch, the quality, freshness, and taste of the seafood here is well worth the price and the wait. Find them right behind Baker’s Street.
Local Table, Saipem
Run by a husband-wife duo, The Local Table in Orda, Candolim borders Saipem and is a place I tried out a couple of weekends ago and really liked! This quaint, homely place offers top-quality seafood and some lip-smacking thalis as well. The Recheado Bangdo and Goan Chicken Chilly Fry were absolutely delicious.
This modest restaurant is located away from the Candolim rush, and although there is not much traffic and congestion in this part of Candolim, the restaurant manages to draw in patrons over and over again, even though their prices are significantly higher than restaurants in this category. We paid Rs. 1900 for the items you see in the reel. The desserts can be skipped, but the seafood is finger-licking good!
I hope this blog post helps take you off the beaten path and try some North Goa fish thalis that are not just riding on social media hype. If you’re looking to take a break from Goan food, here’s where you can find some great Italian food and Pan-Asian restaurants in Goa. As always, I’ll keep updating this and you keep hanging out with me on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram!
