Foodies from around the country would have heard of ‘Pista House,’ the brand that’s world-renowned for making, what is often called Hyderabad’s best Haleem – a Ramzan delicacy. This gooey dish dating back to the time of the Nizams can look quite unappetizing to a first-timer, and just like sushi, it’s one of those things that you either love or hate.
No trip to Hyderabad is complete without a taste. As a food-lover (and food blogger), I couldn’t let a trip to the city go by without trying a spoonful. Lucky for me, on my Ramadan Food Walk with Novotel Hyderabad Airport, I not only got to try it at one of the Pista House outlets but was taken to the open kitchen in the Old City, where over 2000 kgs of Haleem is prepared every single day!
For those who haven’t heard of Pista House, it is the world’s largest Haleem seller with outlets spread across America, the Middle East, South East Asia, and Europe. Every single day, hundreds of kilos of this 16th-century delicacy are sold throughout Hyderabad and exported to all corners of the globe. In Hyderabad itself, dozens of Pista House outlets attract tourists and locals alike – and I visited the outlet at the bustling Charminar Market a few hours after I saw the cooks prepare it here.
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A look inside the Pista House Kitchen
Walking into the Pista House kitchen was like walking into a tandoor! Rows of cauldrons sat upon flames made of imli (tamarind) firewood in cemented blocks, and all corners of it were sealed with fresh mud. The edges of the cauldron were covered with sackcloth and on the lid of each vessel was a brick – all tactics to ensure that as much heat as possible surrounded the cauldron – making the temperature around it so intensely hot that it was impossible to get within a few feet of it without wanting to pass out.
Yet, men in uniform were inches away, two beside each pot, briskly stirring its contents of pounded wheat, mutton, pure ghee, spices, dry fruits, and lentils. A special ingredient, black rice ‘Chakhao’ is also added to the mix – a type of rice that is rich in antioxidants and was once reserved for the royal family of China. Starting at 4 AM, the men would begin – cooking in two shifts of 12 hours each.
After 12 hours of cooking and 45 minutes of pounding, stringy, gloopy Haleem is scooped up in bowls and slimily transferred into larger containers, where they are sealed and taken by truck to all parts of the city. And by dinner time, foodies tuck into Haleem all over the city, polishing off bowls in mere minutes.
There’s no rest. For at the other end of the kitchen are piles of chilies, coriander and spices lying atop sack cloths, ready to be chopped and added to the next batch.
Like I said before, no trip to the city of Nizams is complete without a taste of Haleem, especially if your trip coincides with the holy month of Ramadan. After all, Ramadan is synonymous with Haleem… and Haleem, with Pista House.
Hope you enjoyed this insider-look blog post, it’s a little different as compared to what I normally put up on the blog. Stay tuned for my next post, where I take you through my stay with Novotel Hyderabad Airport and all the stops on our Ramadan Food Walk.
Did I find a haleem better than the one at Pista House? You’ll have to wait and see!
Until then, I’ll see you on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.
